Q. My horse is stabled at night in the winter and although I pick his feet out morning and night he always seems to develop thrush. Any suggestions?

A. Thrush is very common but generally avoidable - in the stabled horse. The infection causes the hoof to break down, blacken and smell foul.
Some horses seem to tolerate the condition surprisingly well whilst others can quickly become quite lame. Picking out feet is very important. Do make sure that you clean the clefts of the frog thoroughly. You would be amazed how many owners are afraid of harming the horse and therefore fail to remove all debris. If in doubt about your own method, ask someone experienced to show you how to do this properly. Scrub out the sole and frog thoroughly until the water runs clean. Then dry thoroughly and then use a hoof brush to apply a paste, made by mixing pevidine and sugar, deep into all crevices. Pevidine can be obtained from your vet. The paste helps to draw out moisture and kill bugs. Muck out well, to keep the bed as clean and dry as possible urine and droppings are enemies of horses feet.

Q. I wash my horses' hooves every night, as they are very muddy. Several people on the yard have told me that I should not do this, as it is bad for his feet. What should I do?

A. This is one of those situations where you have to do all or nothing. There is not a problem with washing your horses? hooves ? they are probably wet with mud anyway. Water is usually good for hooves and in summer, most brittle hoof problems occur as a result of insufficient contact with water. Problems do however arise in winter, if you wash the horses? legs and do not dry them thoroughly causing the skin to become chapped, or fail to wash the legs sufficiently well and then particles of dirt chafe the skin as you rub dry. Mud Fever ? a skin infection - is then likely to take hold; white-limbed horses are especially prone to this. You basically have the following options:

1. Pick out feet. Wash the legs and feet thoroughly, with a mild soap and warm water, to avoid chapped skin. Dry legs and heels very thoroughly with clean towels. Then apply green oils or petroleum jelly to dry heels. This method obviously takes time!
If in doubt, apply stable bandages over clean wadding overnight, or until skin is thoroughly dry.

2. Pick out feet only and leave the mud to dry over night, before rubbing off carefully with hands and a soft brush. The legs will normally dry quicker on a deep straw bed ? which also acts to loosen the mud as it dries.

3. Pick out feet and provided mud is not excessive, put stable bandages on over dry wadding. Remove mud when dry, by rubbing with hands and a soft brush. This method requires that you have several sets of fybagee or similar padding, so that they can be washed and dried frequently.

NB

Only apply bandages if you are confident that you can apply them securely, with even pressure ? without being over tight. Always use padding under bandages. If you would like Stable Management sessions to run on your yard then contact Wendy who will be able to provide suitable contacts.

Q. I have recently bought a new horse, which I am delighted with in every way except she refuses to stand still for me to mount. She becomes quite agitated when I try to keep her still. Do you have any tips?

A. Refusing to stand still for mounting can be a real nuisance and lead to accidents. You mention that this is a new horse ? so I assume this is not your first venture into horse-ownership and you have some experience. You also do not mention the size of the horse ? some big horses can become quite clever at avoiding a jockey ? especially one with short legs! Other horses have simply not been taught to stand still to be mounted, from the outset.
Firstly, rule out any discomfort that may be causing the bad behaviour. Horses change shape throughout their lives and at different times in the year, so it is wise to check your tack for a good fit every few months. It is useful too to regularly massage the muscles of your horses? back and neck during grooming in order to familiarise yourself with normal response and feel ? so that you can then recognise abnormal tension or signs of pain.
Beware of over-tightening the girth prior to mounting ? some horses are incredibly tolerant, others are not. Using a mounting block of some description is always wise ? saving your horses? back and making life easier for you. When starting young horses or re-training, plastic jump blocks or a sturdy wooden stool can be useful as they are easily moved.
Set aside some time in an enclosed area (an arena is ideal). Let your horse get used to your portable mounting block. Place it in a position from which you can mount and step on and off it. If the horse moves away, turn it in a small circle and ask it to stand again, then quietly re-position the block and try again. Most horses learn to stand fairly quickly, provided you stay calm and unhurried. You will soon be able to bounce on your block, whilst facing the horses? back, reins in your left hand as if to mount, right hand on the saddle. It can be useful to bump off the horse with your tummy ? rather like we do when we are preparing them for backing. Progress to lying on your tummy, over the horses back. If she starts to move away slowly then stay in place and quietly ask her to stand again. Keep your body very relaxed. If she rushes, then slide gently to the floor and start again. Do not hang onto the horse tightly, she must not feel trapped and must learn to stand of her own accord. Standing still is simply a question of obedience, but the horse must understand your aim and be taught the appropriate response.
Repeat until she stands whilst you lay across her back; keep her neck slightly flexed to the left on a soft contact so that if she does move off it will be in a circle around your body. Once stationary again reward her generously with your voice and by stroking and rubbing. Avoid patting as it can agitate some horses. Then pass your right leg over her back and sit up. If she moves, stay calm and still whilst you turn her on the small circle asking her to stand again. With calm and patience most horses will respond favourably in just one session. A few may take two or three goes. Read the signs and if you need to quit for another day, choose a point when her response has been favourable and reward her well. If the problem persists then it would be wise to arrange for someone experienced in backing and training horses to look at your method and advise further.
Once cured, it is important that you expect the horse to stand still every time you mount. Do not allow her to move away from you some days and not others ? this simply leads to confusion.
In time, progress to asking the horse to stand next to all sorts of ?mounting blocks? ? like the ramp of a trailer, or a fence, so that you can climb on anytime, anywhere.

Q. There are several of us on the yard who would like some help with finding and using the local bridleways ? can you help?

A. Your County Access and Rights of Way Officer, Barbara Crozier, would be delighted to help with local issues and/or help set up a workshop on your yard. Call Barbara on 01207 583429 or email: barbaracrozier@yahoo.co.uk